We often get asked for our opinion on second-hand bikes – both before and after a purchase.

Buying second-hand can be an amazing way to get a great bike for a fraction of the price. But if you don’t know what to look for, it’s easy to think you’ve found a steal… only to end up with a bike that becomes a bottomless pit of repairs.

We can’t promise this guide will eliminate all the risk, but it’s a great starting point to help you spot the red flags and make a more informed decision before handing over your hard-earned cash. It may well help you save some money!

And if you’d rather have someone in your corner before you buy…

We’re very soon launching a brand-new service designed to help you avoid buying a banger!

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As always, there’s a short video linked at the bottom. 

Start with a through M-Check of the bike. 

An M Check is something we do before rides. It is a good check that doesn’t take too long, but will pick up anything that is unsafe and give you an indication if anything is really worn. The name ‘M Check’ helps us remember the process and ensures we check all the important parts. As in the picture, imagine an M drawn on the bike and follow the shape along.

1. Check the wheels
Rock it side to side and spin it around. Side-to-side play may mean the bearings are worn. If it doesn’t spin freely, there could be an issue with the brake calliper or the disc rotor. It’s good also to check the tires, looking for signs of cracking, or lack of tread.

2. Check the saddle
Make sure it is tight. Loose bolts could mean a rounded bolt, or if they have been loose for a while, the seat post itself may be damaged. If the bike has a dropper post, make sure it isn’t sticky.

3. Check the cranks and gears
Spin the cranks backwards, then pedal forwards to run through the gears. If they aren’t shifting perfectly, it could be a minor adjustment issue, but may also point towards worn-out parts. Try to wobble the pedal side to side to check for play in the bottom bracket.

Continued below….

M Check continued…. 

4. Check the handlebar area
Check the bolts in this area, as they are often adjusted and can commonly have damaged heads, be over-tight, or both.

5. Check the headset
Pull on the front brake and move the bike forwards and backwards. Play in the headset can point to a number of things, some quick and cheap, others quite expensive.

6. Check the brakes
Roll forwards and pull the front brake, then backwards and pull the rear. Make sure the levers don’t pull back to the bar or feel too soft. Check the levers and where the hose joins for signs of leaking oil. A lot of corrosion around the lever could also be a sign of leaks.

If you are buying a bike with suspension or a motor check these too..

If you are buying a suspension or and e bike, always check these things..

Check if there is any side-to-side play in the rear bearings 

Ask the seller when the bearings were last replaced. Most manufacturers will expect owners to do this annually. Full suspension bearing replacement can easily cost upwards of £150, so if in doubt, budget for this.

Pump the suspension

You want to check it is moving up and down smoothly and doesn’t have excessive oil around the seals. If it has compression and/or rebound damping, check these are working. Again, you can ask them if the suspension has recently been serviced.

If the bike has a motor

check how the manufacturer’s warranty works – most are 2 years to the first owner. Make sure it switches on and all features work. Ask the seller if they have a recent diagnostic and battery health check.

And finally,